| 1 | This is another version of the superlative cha gio (also called nems). |
| 2 | The filling here is a bit more elaborate than in the first one. |
| 3 | Boil the noodles. |
| 4 | Prepare the nuoc cham and vegetable platter. |
| 5 | Set aside. |
| 6 | Prepare the filling: soak the two types of mushrooms in hot water until soft, about 30 minutes. |
| 7 | Drain. |
| 8 | Remove the stems from the mushrooms and squeeze to extract the liquid. |
| 9 | Mince the mushrooms. |
| 10 | Combine the mushrooms with the remaining filling ingredients in a large bowl. |
| 11 | Mix with your hands to blend. |
| 12 | Set aside. |
| 13 | Assemble the rolls: fill a mixing bowl with 4 cups of warm water and dissolve the sugar in it. |
| 14 | The rice paper sheets are brittle and must be handled with care. |
| 15 | (the water is used to soften the sheets for handling. |
| 16 | Sweetening the water helps the rice paper turn a deep golden color when fried and also produces crisper rolls). |
| 17 | Work with only 4 sheets of rice paper at a time, keeping the remaining sheets covered with a barely damp cloth to prevent curling. |
| 18 | One at a time, immerse a sheet in the warm water. |
| 19 | Quickly remove it and spread flat on a dry towel. |
| 20 | Do not let the sheets touch each other. |
| 21 | The rice paper will become pliable within seconds. |
| 22 | Fold up the bottom third of each round. |
| 23 | Put 1 generous teaspoon of filling in the center of the folded-over portion. |
| 24 | Press into a compact rectangle. |
| 25 | Fold one side of the paper over the mixture, then the other side. |
| 26 | Roll from bottom to top to completely enclose the filling. |
| 27 | Continue until all of the mixture is used. |
| 28 | Fry the rolls: if possible, fry in 2 skillets. |
| 29 | Pour 1 to 1 ?inches of oil into each skillet and heat to 325°F. |
| 30 | Working in batches, add some of the rolls to each skillet, but do not crowd or let them touch, or they will stick together. |
| 31 | Fry over moderate heat for 10 to 12 minutes, turning often, until golden and crisp. |
| 32 | Remove the rolls with tongs and drain on paper towels. |
| 33 | Keep warm in a low oven while frying the remaining rolls. |
| 34 | Traditionally, cha gio is served with the accompaniments suggested in this recipe. |
| 35 | To eat, each diner wraps a roll in a lettuce leaf along with a few strands of noodles and a variety of other ingredients from the vegetable platter before dipping it in the nuoc cham. |
| 36 | If served as an hors d"ouvre, allow 4 or 5 rolls per person; serve 8 to 10 as a main course. |
| 37 | Note: another popular way of serving this dish is to divide the noodles and elements of the vegetable platter evenly among the individual bowls. |
| 38 | Top each with cut-up pieces of cha gio, ground roasted peanuts and nuoc cham. |
| 39 | As a quick and easy appetizer, cha gio can be served with just nuoc cham. |
| 40 | Yield: about 80 spring rolls |