| 1 | Simple ethnic recipes, unchanged for generations, often have an authority that the latest food fashions cannot begin to match. |
| 2 | The following greek lemon lamb dish is a case in point. |
| 3 | Faithful to its frugal origins. |
| 4 | This recipe works equally well with cheap cuts like lamb shanks. |
| 5 | Breast of lamb or best end of neck. |
| 6 | If you do use these fattier meals, make the dish a day ahead, refrigerate it and remove the fat that coagulates on top. |
| 7 | If anything, the dish gains added depth of flavour when made ahead and reheated. |
| 8 | Trim skin and ail excess fat from a boned shoulder or leg of lamb. |
| 9 | Squeeze enough lemons to provide 1/3 cup of juice. |
| 10 | Open out the meat and rub both inside and outside surfaces with some of the lemon juice and sprinkle them with salt and pepper. |
| 11 | On the inside surface of the meat, sprinkle a teaspoon of dried oregano or ?a tablespoon of chopped fresh oregano. |
| 12 | Roll the meat up and tie securely. |
| 13 | Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a pot large enough to take the roll comfortably and brown the meat on all sides. |
| 14 | Turn the heat down to low and add to the pot the rest of the lemon juice, 2 cloves of garlic, crushed, and another teaspoon of dried oregano or ?tablespoon of fresh. |
| 15 | Cover the pot and simmer very gently, turning occasionally, for about 2 ?hours, till very tender. |
| 16 | If you like, add small new potatoes to the pot about an hour before serving. |
| 17 | To serve, remove the string and slice the meat into the centre of a heated serving platter. |
| 18 | Surround with potatoes and pour lemony juices over the meat. |
| 19 | Makes 6 servings |
